17th Earl of Derby (1865-1948) and Mabel Susan, Baroness St. Oswald (d 1919) by Lafayette 1897

STANLEY, LORD & ST. OSWALD, LADY
Neg. No: GP (L) 1450
Neg. Size: 15"x12"
Neg. Date: 06-07-1897

Sitters:

Edward George Villiers Stanley, Baron Stanley, later 17th Earl of Derby (1865-1948); Lieutenant, Grenadier Guards 1885-1895; Secretary of State for War; Ambassador to France.

Mabel Susan, Baroness St. Oswald, née Forbes (d. 1919); 3rd dau of Sir Charles Forbes, 4th Bt.; m (1892) 2nd Baron St. Oswald of Nostell.

17th Earl of Derby (1865-1948) and Mabel Susan, Baroness St. Oswald (d 1919) by Lafayette 1897

Image displayed in:

Role:

(Lord Stanley) Grenadier Guards Officer, 1660/XVII century.

(Lady St. Oswald) Duchessa di Caluria, a Venetian lady of the XVIth century/Venetian Lady of the XIVth century/Venetian Lady/Florentine Lady of the XIVth century/Florentine Group.

Date: 6 July 1897.

Occasion: The Devonshire House Ball, 2 July 1897.

Location: The Lafayette Studio, 179 New Bond Street, London, W.

Descr: FL standing.

Costume:

(Lord Stanley) Full dress uniform of an Officer of The King's or Royal Regiment of Guards 1660:¹ state coat of scarlet cloth, three-quarter length, trimmed gold, with shoulder knot;² white silk throat bow, trimmed with lace; Parade Armour consisting of breast plate and back plate, decorated with heavy gilt; baldric belt,³ probably of blue velvet, mounted on buckram with heavy gold lacing; sash, probably white silk with heavy bullion fringing; full blue breeches with blue silk knee ties; hose, probably scarlet; Caroline block-heeled shoes with silk bows; gauntlets; wide-brimmed felt hat, with heavy lace band round brim and ostrich plumes; full-bottomed wig;

(Lady St. Oswald) "...a costume consisting of an under robe of old blue brocaded velvet tisse pearls and silver, and an overdress of the finest white crepe de chine, very elaborately embroidered with silver, with applique of blue satin and cabochons of pearls. She wore a small Venetian cap of blue velvet and white silk crepe; with pearl embroidery and long veil of white crepe embroidered silver. Round the corsage was a very handsome jewelled belt, from which hung an aumoniere." (The Standard, 3 July 1897, p 4b).

Costume Supplier: (Lady St. Oswald) Alias, 36 Soho Square, London W.

Furniture & Props: Painted backdrop; studio column; studio balustrade.

Photographer:The firm of J. Lafayette, 179 New Bond Street, London, W.

Evidence of photographer at work: Rococo backrop visible behind main backdrop to right of plate.

No of poses: 1 [but see also neg 1378 for portrait of Lord Stanley].

Copyright: V&A

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Provenance: Pinewood Studios; acquired 1989.

References:

Biog: (Lord Stanley) Dictionary of National Biography; Burke's Peerage; The Complete Peerage; Who's Who; The Times, 5 February 1948, p 6d. (Lady St. Oswald) Burke's Peerage; The Complete Peerage; The Times, 17 February 1919, p 6.

Role: (Lord Stanley) (Grenadier Guard officer, 1660) The Gentlewoman, 10 July 1897, p 50b. (Grenadier Guard's Officer, XVII century) Devonshire House Fancy Dress Ball, July 2 1897: A Collection of Portraits in Costume of Some of the Guests, privately printed, 1899, p 181, (National Portrait Gallery Archives). (Lady St. Oswald) (Duchessa di Caluria) Devonshire House Fancy Dress Ball, July 2 1897: A Collection of Portraits in Costume of Some of the Guests, privately printed, 1899, p 172, (National Portrait Gallery Archives); The Morning Post, 3 July 1897, p 7e; The Times, 3 July 1897, p 12a; (Venetian Lady of the XIVth Century) The Standard, 3 July 1897, p 4b; The Gentlewoman, 10 July 1897, p 56b; (Venetian Lady) Truth, 8 July 1897, p 107b; (Florentine Lady of the XIVth century) The Daily Graphic, 3 July 1897, pp 12 & 13a; (Florentine Group) The Daily Telegraph, 3 July 1897, p 10b.

Occasion: Sophia Murphy, The Duchess of Devonshire's Ball, London, 1984.

Costume: (Lord Stanley) The Gentlewoman, 10 July 1897, p 50b; The Grenadier Guard's Museum (see below). (Lady St. Oswald) The Daily Graphic, 3 July 1897, pp 12 & 13a; The Daily Telegraph, 3 July 1897, p 10b; The Standard, 3 July 1897, p 4b; The Gentlewoman, 10 July 1897, p 56b; Lady's Pictorial, 10 July 1897, p 50a (line drawing).

Costume Supplier: (Lady St. Oswald) The Daily Graphic, 3 July 1897, p 13a.

Reproduced: (Versions) (Lord Stanley) Devonshire House Fancy Dress Ball, July 2 1897: A Collection of Portraits in Costume of Some of the Guests, privately printed, 1899, p 181, (National Portrait Gallery Archives); (Lady St. Oswald) ibid, p 172.

Acknowledgements: (Uniform) Captain D. D. Horn MISM, Curator, The Guard's Museum, Wellington Barracks, London SW1.

_______________1. For a late nineteenth-century costume source, see Lieutenant General Sir F.W. Hamilton, The History of The Grenadier Guards, [plate], [date], Vol I, p ?.

2. Shoulder knot - an indication of rank and probably of dark blue silk.

3. Baldrick belt - to support sword, not visible in the photograph.